thisissideupfamily.org
One thing about buying a house is that there is always a list or a series of lists-right? There is the wish list-the three bedrooms, 2 baths. 2 car garage, fenced yard list of features you really want in the new place. Then there is the packing list, and of course once you find the house and get an accepted offer-the to do list that comes with buying a home-inspections, obtaining insurance etc. After closing-it evolves into the household chore list-which is a bit more extensive than when you resided in the rental property. No more landlord to shovel the sidewalks and parking lot, mow the grass,and paint the trim. That's now on you.
But there is one more list that I want to talk about. It is the list of items that you will need to gather for your mortgage loan. The reason I mention this is because many people get caught up in the excitement of buying a home and begin packing-at once-before the new home is procured. And where do we begin when we are packing and sending items to charitable organizations? The items we think we will not need until we are moved. Which would be the contents of filing cabinets, the top cupboards etc. And that means that many times the financial documents that are needed for the mortgage loan get packed up and stashed in storage or at the bottom of a pile of boxes waiting to be moved.
keciametty.blogspot.com
Here is where I am going to tell you what not to pack! These items are essential to obtaining mortgage financing. If you don't have them-your loan will not be approved. There is no court of appeal-these items are essential so don't put them out of reach.
protectamerican.com
Here we go, this is what you will need:
W2's-the past two years
Tax returns-we don't always need them, but if we do, getting them from the IRS is a pain so don't pack them away.
(As an aside, tax returns and W2's are not interchangeable)
Pay stubs-30 days
Bank statements-60 days
Driver's license/social security card (The soc card is often put away somewhere since most people don't carry them any more. If you can't find it you can obtain verification of your number at the local social security office and that form will work .If you have no driver's license a military ID, passport, or state issued ID will work)
If you have had a divorce you will need your decree and property settlement as well as any child support or maintenance orders
If you had a bankruptcy in the past 5 years, you will need to produce your bankruptcy papers.
That is the short list-where we begin. Depending on the situation other documents such as marriage licenses to prove relationship, grade transcripts, diplomas and other odds and ends may be requested. But those are on a case by case basis. Does this sound like a lot of documentation? In order to prevent another mortgage meltdown the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has set stipulations on the documentation that must be in loan files. So if you wish you can blame the government. Personally I think it is good business. Not good business to hassle any individual, but good business to ensure that mortgage loans are going to folks who can actually pay back the money. While everyone who wants a mortgage has every intention of making their house payments it is important that in reality, they can.
Tax season is upon us so if you are planning on buying a home this spring, now is a great time to pull those documents out and set them aside so they are ready when you make your mortgage application.
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
Thursday, February 13, 2014
2014 SO FAR
dailyherald.com This has kind of been the problem hasn't it? It is hard to get excited to go look at homes you might like to purchase with snow and ice going on. But interestingly enough, there has been quite a bit of activity in the local housing market. Most of my Realtor associates tell me that they have listings inking on a daily basis and more lined up to do so when the snowy pattern breaks.
I have attended a few open houses lately and there have been several hearty souls out looking to beat the rush to home ownership. The showings reports for January despite the weather have been quite good-activity is up.
At the moment, interest rates are holding steadily in the mid to upper 4's which is still great news for the wallets of potential purchasers. However, we do anticipate that once the weather breaks and demand goes up, the rates will go up as well.
Lately inventory has been in short supply so sellers have been able to hold the lid on pricing that is advantageous to them. The Anything Buyer's Say Market is over. This year we will no doubt return to equilibrium. Sellers should be willing to assist buyer's with closing costs, but they will want a higher price in return. There will be properties and price ranges that are highly desirable and we may see a return to list price offers. This return to more normal patterns may see a decrease in investment buying as pricing will reflect a healthier market. While there are still some foreclosures that will hit the market this year, the bulk of the foreclosure crunch is over. All reports are that new foreclosures are down-so what is left is to flush what remains. By next year the foreclosure wave should be done.
There seems to be a general agreement among most of the real estate professionals I speak with-the pent up demand of the past few years is ready to burst. Many young adults have been making do with Mom and Dad until they found a job-those folks will be out in droves. Since rents are increasing at a rapid rate, the new lease agreement may be the incentive that many people need to ask the question: "Would I be better off buying?"
Since market values are appreciating again the trade up buyers will be out. Of course there are many folks who will need to trade down because the kids have found jobs and left the nest. All in all, it is stacking up to be a great year in real estate.
My best advice to any buyer who is serious about getting a good price is to get pre-purchase underwritten now. Get your ducks in a row and buy earlier this year rather than later. Be ready to close quickly. Let's see - if you wait-prices will be higher, rates will be higher-what's to think about? The time to start your search for your new home is now.
timminstimes.com
Well, it might be good to wait until the drive is plowed out at any rate!
I have attended a few open houses lately and there have been several hearty souls out looking to beat the rush to home ownership. The showings reports for January despite the weather have been quite good-activity is up.
At the moment, interest rates are holding steadily in the mid to upper 4's which is still great news for the wallets of potential purchasers. However, we do anticipate that once the weather breaks and demand goes up, the rates will go up as well.
Lately inventory has been in short supply so sellers have been able to hold the lid on pricing that is advantageous to them. The Anything Buyer's Say Market is over. This year we will no doubt return to equilibrium. Sellers should be willing to assist buyer's with closing costs, but they will want a higher price in return. There will be properties and price ranges that are highly desirable and we may see a return to list price offers. This return to more normal patterns may see a decrease in investment buying as pricing will reflect a healthier market. While there are still some foreclosures that will hit the market this year, the bulk of the foreclosure crunch is over. All reports are that new foreclosures are down-so what is left is to flush what remains. By next year the foreclosure wave should be done.
There seems to be a general agreement among most of the real estate professionals I speak with-the pent up demand of the past few years is ready to burst. Many young adults have been making do with Mom and Dad until they found a job-those folks will be out in droves. Since rents are increasing at a rapid rate, the new lease agreement may be the incentive that many people need to ask the question: "Would I be better off buying?"
Since market values are appreciating again the trade up buyers will be out. Of course there are many folks who will need to trade down because the kids have found jobs and left the nest. All in all, it is stacking up to be a great year in real estate.
My best advice to any buyer who is serious about getting a good price is to get pre-purchase underwritten now. Get your ducks in a row and buy earlier this year rather than later. Be ready to close quickly. Let's see - if you wait-prices will be higher, rates will be higher-what's to think about? The time to start your search for your new home is now.
timminstimes.com
Well, it might be good to wait until the drive is plowed out at any rate!
Friday, February 7, 2014
CASH-AN ONGOING COMPLICATION WITH LENDING
First, there is the obvious problem-if we all paid cash to buy houses then I would be out of a job-being required to sell popcorn at the circus or engage myself with some other dubious career. But it is probably unlikely that anytime soon (before I hit retirement age anyway) that most homes will be purchased in cash transactions.
I had a client I worked with last year that had several thousands for his down payment stored in his freezer. (I am not kidding-the money was in his freezer.) It was his money he argued. Why couldn't he use it? The reason he can't use it to purchase a home is because every loan program that I can access for my clients has the fingerprints of Uncle Sam all over it. Whether it is the Federal insurance or guarantee that come with FHA and VA or the fact that Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac are entities that are controlled by standards set by the Federal Government with respect to conventional loans-all of them are regulated by the Federal Government. (There may be private investors out there that provide money for mortgages but that ain't my gig so I don't know much about those.) So with all that Federal oversight, what that means is that the Patriot Act applies to banks and lenders-and ultimately to you.
Still don't understand how your $500 cash deposit has anything to do with the Patriot Act? You probably remember 9/11-right? The 9/11 highjackers paid for all their mayhem with cash. Cash that rolled into their bank accounts unnoticed because in 2011 no one paid any attention to deposits. So in an attempt to track terror plots, lenders and banks are now required to prove the paper trail for all large deposits. That includes your friendly neighborhood bank or mortgage broker. Which means you.
shoutot.com
What you may ask constitutes a large deposit? That is where it gets tricky. The Federal Government has said that large deposits must be sourced, but they don't define what constitutes a large deposit-in the lending world anyway.
I think we can all agree that my prior client's frozen thousands would constitute a large deposit. But I have seen $200 be declared a large deposit. I think a good rule of thumb is that any deposit over 25% of your gross monthly income would be considered a "large" deposit.
Here's the thing...if the deposit came from a check or wire from another source such as the US Treasury, or direct deposit from your employer-no problem with the money. It can be traced to the source. But if it came out of a hole in the backyard where it has been buried for a year-then there is a problem. Unless...
The money is deposited and you wait for two months of bank statements that don't show the deposit - then you are okay. Lending requires two months of bank statements to process a loan. If the money is in the bank on two successive bank statements after the month of the deposit-voila! The money is good.
You can anticipate that transfers from your mom's account or even from an account that belongs to your spouse but does not have your name on it will beg questioned. Those are generally not a problem as we handle them as "gifts" by seeing the money in the transferring account prior to the transfer and then obtaining a gift letter from the owner of the originating account.
We want you to be able to use all the money that is coming to you. We never like to disallow money-it can sometimes mean that someone has to delay or not complete a transaction. The simplest way to remember all this is that when it comes to buying a home-all money must be accounted for-so be sure that any cash deposits are small and not monies that you depend on for the down payment.
The problem with cash is the Patriot Act. What? What does the Patriot Act have to do with cash? The Patriot Act is the reason that if you drop your garage sale money or the gift that your Aunt Emma gave you for Christmas into your checking account and then decide to buy a house we will send you to obtain the paper trail for the money or ...if there is no paper trail, not allow you to use the money in your home buying transaction.
blog.fpweb.netI had a client I worked with last year that had several thousands for his down payment stored in his freezer. (I am not kidding-the money was in his freezer.) It was his money he argued. Why couldn't he use it? The reason he can't use it to purchase a home is because every loan program that I can access for my clients has the fingerprints of Uncle Sam all over it. Whether it is the Federal insurance or guarantee that come with FHA and VA or the fact that Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac are entities that are controlled by standards set by the Federal Government with respect to conventional loans-all of them are regulated by the Federal Government. (There may be private investors out there that provide money for mortgages but that ain't my gig so I don't know much about those.) So with all that Federal oversight, what that means is that the Patriot Act applies to banks and lenders-and ultimately to you.
Still don't understand how your $500 cash deposit has anything to do with the Patriot Act? You probably remember 9/11-right? The 9/11 highjackers paid for all their mayhem with cash. Cash that rolled into their bank accounts unnoticed because in 2011 no one paid any attention to deposits. So in an attempt to track terror plots, lenders and banks are now required to prove the paper trail for all large deposits. That includes your friendly neighborhood bank or mortgage broker. Which means you.
shoutot.com
What you may ask constitutes a large deposit? That is where it gets tricky. The Federal Government has said that large deposits must be sourced, but they don't define what constitutes a large deposit-in the lending world anyway.
I think we can all agree that my prior client's frozen thousands would constitute a large deposit. But I have seen $200 be declared a large deposit. I think a good rule of thumb is that any deposit over 25% of your gross monthly income would be considered a "large" deposit.
Here's the thing...if the deposit came from a check or wire from another source such as the US Treasury, or direct deposit from your employer-no problem with the money. It can be traced to the source. But if it came out of a hole in the backyard where it has been buried for a year-then there is a problem. Unless...
The money is deposited and you wait for two months of bank statements that don't show the deposit - then you are okay. Lending requires two months of bank statements to process a loan. If the money is in the bank on two successive bank statements after the month of the deposit-voila! The money is good.
You can anticipate that transfers from your mom's account or even from an account that belongs to your spouse but does not have your name on it will beg questioned. Those are generally not a problem as we handle them as "gifts" by seeing the money in the transferring account prior to the transfer and then obtaining a gift letter from the owner of the originating account.
We want you to be able to use all the money that is coming to you. We never like to disallow money-it can sometimes mean that someone has to delay or not complete a transaction. The simplest way to remember all this is that when it comes to buying a home-all money must be accounted for-so be sure that any cash deposits are small and not monies that you depend on for the down payment.
Tuesday, February 4, 2014
YES! PRE-PURCHASE UNDERWRITING
pilotfire.com
There is nothing better than being able to say YES! The best days are the days when I get to tell people yes.YES, your mortgage is approved. But sometimes in mortgage lending the "YES" is problematical. Sometimes the YES is based on enough information to believe the answer will be YES but there is something else floating around out there that I don't know about-a something that can turn a YES into a cold hard NO!
Most sellers upon receiving an offer have a reasonable expectation that the potential buyer has the means to actually close the deal and cough up the money to buy the house. To those ends the buyer's agent presents the seller's agent with what is customarily known as a letter of pre-approval. This letter is written on the letter head of the lender with whom the buyer wishes to obtain financing. It typically outlines that the lender has at least spoken to the buyer, taken a look at credit and given that broad overview, thinks that the buyer will be able to obtain financing. Hopefully they have reviewed some pay stubs and W2's.
I can't even begin to enumerate all the things that can go wrong with only the information upon which a pre-approval is based. The key part of the phrase pre-approval is the "pre". What the "pre" means is that the loan is not approved-an underwriter hasn't even peeked at it in most cases. Any questions that will be generated once an underwriter gets their grubby hands on the loan package are as yet, unanswered. Depending on how diligent the loan originator was in following the questions that sprout from the basic questions he/she has asked-any result can occur-including "LOAN DENIED". By the time we get to "LOAN DENIED" money has been spent, a home has been taken off the market and time has been wasted. Not a pretty picture.
Loan originators aren't underwriters. Over time we learn a lot and may have a good idea of what can be approved and what can't. But more than once I have had a loan that I thought couldn't be done be approved and ones that I thought would be no problem denied. So we aren't the last word in approval predictions. The rules on mortgage loans have changed so many times that knowing them all on any given day is a Herculean task. That is why we have underwriters. People who specialize in particular loan products. Most companies are set up so the underwriter's task is specific-one underwriter may underwrite conventional loans, VA loans, FHA loans or USDA loans and they stick to that product. (Many are cross trained-but normally you don't see a conventional underwriter adding an FHA loan to their to do list.
What every loan originator wants and every lender wants is this:
123rf.com
If we don't get to "LOAN APPROVED" a lot of time energy and money has been wasted and quite frankly. I look like a putz.
And since I don't like looking like a putz, I tend to prefer the "APPROVED" days- I have a solution. (You knew I would didn't you?)
My solution is a PRE-PURCHASE UNDERWRITTEN APPROVAL. And yes, my company is one of the few that offers those. What this means is that you come in, we take your application without a house -you don't have a house yet, but we have all the pertinent information to submit a loan file and we get you underwritten. Any issues, unanswered questions, deal breakers-all that stuff, if there is any, will come out in the wash. We then have time to solve any problems before the clock is ticking on a closing date. When I turn you loose with an "APPROVED" stamp on your forehead, you are ready to buy. You are ready like a cash buyer is ready.
All that we need is an appraisal and clear title work. It doesn't get
much better than that.
Why doesn't every lender do that? Underwriting takes time, underwriter's expect to be paid, and if the buyer chooses to go somewhere else for their loan then the time has been spent to no benefit for the lender.
Monday, February 3, 2014
HOW DO I FINANCE A BRAND NEW HOME?
ez1realty.net
Who hasn't ever thought, "Gee, if I could build my own home, I could design everything exactly the way I want it." And every year thousands of Americans do just that-build their own homes. When you look around the community, many times available existing properties were built when we lived quite differently. Maybe a one car garage, one full bath home just isn't cutting it for you, no matter how nicely it is upgraded. So you start thinking-what if I built a new home? How much will it cost? Can I get a loan for a new home?
Mortgage loans are blind whether what you want to buy is a new home or an older home-what you can afford given your income and debt ratios is what you can afford. It doesn't matter if it is old or new. However, the key question you need to answer is-what will the amount I can afford buy me in new construction? The answer varies from market to market, but size, location, and amenities normally play a role in the price of a new home. You may be able to afford a home with a full basement in a pre-existing home but not be able to afford the cost of adding a full basement to a new home. In any case, if you can't find what you want in existing housing, building a new home may be for you.
In terms of the financing, there are two ways to obtain a loan on a new home. One is using a construction loan. In this case, you as the buyer would obtain the money to pay your builder as he moves through different phases of construction. The builder obtains money (a draw) as each phase is completed. There is an up side and a down side to construction loans. The up side is that you have (the illusion at least) of having more control of the process. You are the one who writes the check to builder as each component of the job is completed. However, there is a down side too. You are the one paying the interest on the project and if it is delayed by weather, a shortage of lumber,drywall etc. you are the one footing the bill. Many construction loans now have a one time close so the loan will move into your final loan without having to go through the closing process twice. Buyer construction loans are often used when dealing with a custom builder or a more expensive home builder that is building outside of a development project.
The second way to finance your new home is with builder carried construction loans. The positive to this is that if there are delays, the builder will be the one paying any extra interest. The builder is also the one who manages the draws for each phase of construction. (Keep in mind that most communities require permits to be signed off on by government officials-so your builder does have accountability to meet local building codes and rules.) And the obvious question is-do you have the expertise and knowledge to know if he was meeting local requirements anyway? So the power of the checkbook isn't quite so great as some would think.) This is the simplest method of obtaining financing for your new home. Not all builders can carry the construction loan of course, but if this is your preference you might choose to shop for a builder who can.
In order to finance your home either way you would determine how much you can afford by going through the pre-approval steps to determine price range. How much you actually spend depends on the builder you choose, amenities, building site and prep work for the site, etc. I normally add another step to the process and that is to submit the loan file for credit underwriting prior to the builder starting the project. At that time we would know that the loan for the price of the home will be approved, and if there are any issues they can be dealt with during the construction process.
interiordesignable.com
With regard to mortgages there are a couple of downsides to new construction financing: Until the home is about 60 days from completion it it is very expensive to lock an interest rate. Also - once the rate is locked and closing is in sight credit is repulled, and income and asset documents are updated. If there have been any significant changes to any of these to the negative, the loan may be in jeopardy. If you have purchased a home at the top end of your debt ratio and there is a significant increase in the interest rate from the beginning of the process, the approved loan amount could change.
However, if you have a good handle on your credit, income and assets, building a new home may be a possibility well worth investigating. Don't be shy about looking into it.
Who hasn't ever thought, "Gee, if I could build my own home, I could design everything exactly the way I want it." And every year thousands of Americans do just that-build their own homes. When you look around the community, many times available existing properties were built when we lived quite differently. Maybe a one car garage, one full bath home just isn't cutting it for you, no matter how nicely it is upgraded. So you start thinking-what if I built a new home? How much will it cost? Can I get a loan for a new home?
Mortgage loans are blind whether what you want to buy is a new home or an older home-what you can afford given your income and debt ratios is what you can afford. It doesn't matter if it is old or new. However, the key question you need to answer is-what will the amount I can afford buy me in new construction? The answer varies from market to market, but size, location, and amenities normally play a role in the price of a new home. You may be able to afford a home with a full basement in a pre-existing home but not be able to afford the cost of adding a full basement to a new home. In any case, if you can't find what you want in existing housing, building a new home may be for you.
In terms of the financing, there are two ways to obtain a loan on a new home. One is using a construction loan. In this case, you as the buyer would obtain the money to pay your builder as he moves through different phases of construction. The builder obtains money (a draw) as each phase is completed. There is an up side and a down side to construction loans. The up side is that you have (the illusion at least) of having more control of the process. You are the one who writes the check to builder as each component of the job is completed. However, there is a down side too. You are the one paying the interest on the project and if it is delayed by weather, a shortage of lumber,drywall etc. you are the one footing the bill. Many construction loans now have a one time close so the loan will move into your final loan without having to go through the closing process twice. Buyer construction loans are often used when dealing with a custom builder or a more expensive home builder that is building outside of a development project.
The second way to finance your new home is with builder carried construction loans. The positive to this is that if there are delays, the builder will be the one paying any extra interest. The builder is also the one who manages the draws for each phase of construction. (Keep in mind that most communities require permits to be signed off on by government officials-so your builder does have accountability to meet local building codes and rules.) And the obvious question is-do you have the expertise and knowledge to know if he was meeting local requirements anyway? So the power of the checkbook isn't quite so great as some would think.) This is the simplest method of obtaining financing for your new home. Not all builders can carry the construction loan of course, but if this is your preference you might choose to shop for a builder who can.
In order to finance your home either way you would determine how much you can afford by going through the pre-approval steps to determine price range. How much you actually spend depends on the builder you choose, amenities, building site and prep work for the site, etc. I normally add another step to the process and that is to submit the loan file for credit underwriting prior to the builder starting the project. At that time we would know that the loan for the price of the home will be approved, and if there are any issues they can be dealt with during the construction process.
With regard to mortgages there are a couple of downsides to new construction financing: Until the home is about 60 days from completion it it is very expensive to lock an interest rate. Also - once the rate is locked and closing is in sight credit is repulled, and income and asset documents are updated. If there have been any significant changes to any of these to the negative, the loan may be in jeopardy. If you have purchased a home at the top end of your debt ratio and there is a significant increase in the interest rate from the beginning of the process, the approved loan amount could change.
However, if you have a good handle on your credit, income and assets, building a new home may be a possibility well worth investigating. Don't be shy about looking into it.
Friday, January 31, 2014
ADDING CO-BORROWERS TO A LOAN
happyherald.com
Today's topic concerns adding a co-borrower to a loan. It is a question that comes up fairly frequently, particularly when one party has credit that isn't good enough to qualify for a mortgage loan.
There are a couple of types of co-borrowing situations. The most common is a husband and wife who are buying a home together. Typically they are buying the home for a residence. As long as credit, income and debt ratios are within scope this type of loan will be processed and approved as a matter of course.
The questions I receive about co-borrowing are typically when someone attempts to qualify for mortgage financing and discovers one of two things:
1) His or her credit isn't good enough to qualify
2) His or her income isn't enough to qualify for what they wish to buy
gspitp.activerain.com
I will tackle the second question first- and the decision that must be made has everything to do with the rules set forth by FHA and Fannie Mae. Often parents wish to assist their children by co-signing for a mortgage loan-particularly if income or debt ratio is an issue. In this scenario, we are assuming good credit on the part of both parties. There are two options and the choice has to do with down payment. Fannie Mae the overseer of conventional lending does not recognize a co-borrower that is not going to occupy a property. Therefore, if someone wants to use a conventional mortgage to purchase a property for their child the property is defined as an investment property-even if the child is living there, in title, and paying the mortgage on their own. An investment property requires a minimum of 20% down payment. Lending fees and or interest rates are higher for an investment property than a primary property as well. So this may not be a palatable or feasible option. (And if you are thinking you will say that both parties are living in the property when that is not the case-think again. Not telling the truth about occupancy is loan fraud, which is a federal offense and the penalties are severe.)
That leaves us with the second option which is the FHA option. FHA does have an exception for a non-occupying co-borrower. So the student or under employed child is allowed to have a parent or relative that can co-sign on the loan with the minimal down payment of 3.5%. Both incomes and debts will be computed into the debt ratio to determine affordability but this is a very common method of a parent helping a child obtain their first home. Both credit reports will reflect the mortgage so keep in mind that Johnny has to pay his mortgage or mom's credit rating will be affected too. If Johnny decides not to pay at all the lender will come looking for the co-borrower. The co-borrower owns the house just as much as the child does.
Scenario number one is the one that I receive the most calls on. Someone has poor credit but has a parent, friend, boyfriend etc. who is willing to co-sign. First and foremost, let me say this- it is not a sound financial decision for someone with good credit to co-sign for a loan for anyone with poor credit. Sound harsh? I am a big believer that past is prologue-which is not to say that someone may have a run of bad luck that affects their credit, and they will get the ship righted eventually. But only too often, the person with poor credit goes down with the ship taking the good credit co-signer with them. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, lending uses the lower of the two borrower's credit scores to determine loan eligibility. So a borrower with an exceptional credit score is of no help to a borrower with an ineligible credit score. Ineligible carries the day.
As I have often stated, the best thing that someone with low credit scores can do is, be patient, and work on the credit piece. Good credit is a habit. We are always happy to give someone with credit question guidance on how to improve their scores.
Today's topic concerns adding a co-borrower to a loan. It is a question that comes up fairly frequently, particularly when one party has credit that isn't good enough to qualify for a mortgage loan.
There are a couple of types of co-borrowing situations. The most common is a husband and wife who are buying a home together. Typically they are buying the home for a residence. As long as credit, income and debt ratios are within scope this type of loan will be processed and approved as a matter of course.
The questions I receive about co-borrowing are typically when someone attempts to qualify for mortgage financing and discovers one of two things:
1) His or her credit isn't good enough to qualify
2) His or her income isn't enough to qualify for what they wish to buy
gspitp.activerain.com
I will tackle the second question first- and the decision that must be made has everything to do with the rules set forth by FHA and Fannie Mae. Often parents wish to assist their children by co-signing for a mortgage loan-particularly if income or debt ratio is an issue. In this scenario, we are assuming good credit on the part of both parties. There are two options and the choice has to do with down payment. Fannie Mae the overseer of conventional lending does not recognize a co-borrower that is not going to occupy a property. Therefore, if someone wants to use a conventional mortgage to purchase a property for their child the property is defined as an investment property-even if the child is living there, in title, and paying the mortgage on their own. An investment property requires a minimum of 20% down payment. Lending fees and or interest rates are higher for an investment property than a primary property as well. So this may not be a palatable or feasible option. (And if you are thinking you will say that both parties are living in the property when that is not the case-think again. Not telling the truth about occupancy is loan fraud, which is a federal offense and the penalties are severe.)
That leaves us with the second option which is the FHA option. FHA does have an exception for a non-occupying co-borrower. So the student or under employed child is allowed to have a parent or relative that can co-sign on the loan with the minimal down payment of 3.5%. Both incomes and debts will be computed into the debt ratio to determine affordability but this is a very common method of a parent helping a child obtain their first home. Both credit reports will reflect the mortgage so keep in mind that Johnny has to pay his mortgage or mom's credit rating will be affected too. If Johnny decides not to pay at all the lender will come looking for the co-borrower. The co-borrower owns the house just as much as the child does.
Scenario number one is the one that I receive the most calls on. Someone has poor credit but has a parent, friend, boyfriend etc. who is willing to co-sign. First and foremost, let me say this- it is not a sound financial decision for someone with good credit to co-sign for a loan for anyone with poor credit. Sound harsh? I am a big believer that past is prologue-which is not to say that someone may have a run of bad luck that affects their credit, and they will get the ship righted eventually. But only too often, the person with poor credit goes down with the ship taking the good credit co-signer with them. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, lending uses the lower of the two borrower's credit scores to determine loan eligibility. So a borrower with an exceptional credit score is of no help to a borrower with an ineligible credit score. Ineligible carries the day.
As I have often stated, the best thing that someone with low credit scores can do is, be patient, and work on the credit piece. Good credit is a habit. We are always happy to give someone with credit question guidance on how to improve their scores.
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
TIME TO REDUCE THE TERM OF YOUR MORTGAGE
How do you feel about paying on your mortgage until you are old as Methuselah?
poetryrapgenius.com
Maybe you hadn't thought about it. You have always been paying for where you live-first rent, then a house payment and if you bought your house pre-2008, you may have refinanced to get a lower rate while your kids went to college or took some cash out of the ole homestead to pay off some debt. None of which is bad. That was then, this is now and things are looking up. Employment is improving, homes are once again appreciating, and best of all interest rates are still low.
So perhaps there is a reason to look more than a day ahead-let's say, look into that crystal ball-fifteen, twenty years into the future.
What do you see? Sandy beaches and Pina Coladas?
asia.com
Or may you were thinking you would prefer to travel the world...
airlinestaff.com
Or maybe just not having to make a mortgage payment floats your boat.
lazygamer.netI think I said boat...well...you get the idea. Whatever you see yourself doing in fifteen or twenty years, it might be easier if your house was paid off. This may require some sacrifice on your part. A fifteen year payment is going to be higher than a thirty year payment-we are trying to cram the same amount of money into a smaller increment of time. Obviously, the debt ratios have to work and you have to feel comfortable that you can make the payment. Perhaps reducing to a twenty year payoff is more comfortable. Let's work some numbers:
Let's say you owe $123,000 on your 30 year mortgage. You have had your mortgage for five years-so you still have 25 years left to pay on it. Your interest rates is 4.75%.
Interest left to pay: $109,740
Let's drop that mortgage to a fifteen year mortgage at 4.0%
Interest that will be paid over the life of the loan: $41, 429 YOWZA!
That is $68,311 in savings-money back in your pocket. The monthly payment will be right around $942 principal and interest-which is significantly higher than your 30 year loan which is at about $652. But...if you have the extra $310 per month it makes good sense to keep your money and be free of house payments sooner. Free to take up hang gliding in Belize.
untamedholidays.com
Or tap dancing in Poukipsee.
intrest.com
Whatever floats your boat.
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